The Definitive Baselworld 08 Chapter 3 - Watchmaking

OMEGA’s launch of its Co-Axial Escapement in 1999 signaled a revolution in contemporary mechanical watchmaking. It represented, in the words of its inventor George Daniels, “the first practical new watch escapement in the 250 years following the invention of the lever escapement by Thomas Mudge in the 18th century.”

In 2007, OMEGA introduced its Co-Axial calibre 8500/8501. Each component was designed specifically for the calibre 8500/8501 from inception. Not content simply to create an exclusive Co-Axial calibre, OMEGA optimised the precision of their Co-Axial Escapement and free sprung balance by improving the design and using a larger (13-ligne) movement. OMEGA had set the standard but was ready to take on some new challenges.

In 2008, OMEGA’s has taken the next step in its quest to create state-of-the-industry mechanical watches produced on an industrial scale: the introduction of the Si 14 silicon balance-spring, named for the chemical symbol and the atomic number for silicon.


Silicon is non-magnetic so the performance of the Si 14 balance-spring is not disturbed by exposure to magnetic objects. This physical property of silicon allows watches with the Si 14 balance-spring to deliver significantly better chronometric performance than balance-springs made of traditional materials.

While the performance of mechanical watches tends to deviate over time as a result of small everyday shocks, these disturbances have very little effect on Si 14 silicon balance-springs.

There is substantial freedom in the fabrication of balance-springs made of silicon which allows the Si 14’s geometry to be modified for optimal isochronism, the quality of oscillations occurring in equal periods of time. This isochronous quality reduces the amount of deviation in the watch’s accuracy.

The Si 14 silicon balance-springs are being introduced in the De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar watch and in the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ladies’ OMEGA Co-Axial Collection.

The “Si 14” identification marks engraved on the balance arm and on the back of the watchcase serve as a reminder that these are among the finest, most advanced, most accurate mechanical timepieces in the world.



The De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar Limited Series is the refined result of 160 years of experience in the art of making mechanical watches. At the heart of the Hour Vision Annual Calendar is the exclusive OMEGA calibre 8611, a high-precision COSC-certified chronometer with an instantaneous jump annual calendar complication. This annual calendar automatically recognizes months with 30 and 31 days and needs to be manually corrected only once a year, on the first of March.

These extraordinary timepieces also have silicon balance springs which further contribute to their precision and stability. The presence of the silicon balance springs is indicated by “Si 14” engraved on the caseback and balance arm.


The De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar, in a Limited Series of 160 pieces, is based on advanced Co-Axial technology exclusive to OMEGA: the Co-Axial Escapement and free sprung balance deliver stable accuracy and extended reliability over time. A 13-ligne movement with 18-Ct red gold rotor and balance bridge, the OMEGA 8611 has two series-mounted barrels with a 55-hour power reserve and a bi-directional self-winding mechanism. The intricate beauty of the mechanism is accentuated by the luxurious decorative finish, as fine black screws complement the delicate Geneva stripes presented with an arabesque pattern, a world premiere.

OMEGA’s rich heritage and unparalleled experience in the production of mechanical watches is expressed in every feature, beginning with the polished 18-Ct white gold case with sapphire crystal allowing visibility of the meticulously-crafted movement. The caseback of the De Ville Annual Calendar Limited Series bears the Limited Series number (0/160) along with the inscriptions Hour Vision and Annual Calendar. This exclusive timepiece is presented in a wooden box fitted with four lateral windows through which the watch is visible, echoing the four sapphire lateral openings in the watch case itself.

The De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar Limited Series is complemented by a Collection of eight models, four in red gold and four in stainless steel, all with dials identical in design to that of the Limited Series (for details, see the previous page). The steel models are offered with silver or grey dials and a steel bracelet or black alligator leather strap. The red gold models are available with silver or brown dials and a red gold bracelet or brown alligator leather strap. Their meticulously-crafted movements are visible through four lateral openings made of sapphire crystal.

As with the De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar Limited Series, the timepieces in the Collection are driven by the exclusive OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8611, which evolved from OMEGA’s revolutionary, state-of-the-industry calibre 8500. The calibre 8611 has an added instantaneous jump annual calendar complication which recognizes months with 30 and 31 days, meaning that it has to be manually corrected only once a year, on the first of March. Its Co-Axial Escapement and free sprung balance deliver stable accuracy and reliability over time; the self-winding chronometers have a power reserve of 55 hours.

The De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar wristwatches are also equipped with another groundbreaking feature: they have silicon balance-springs for an unprecedented level of accuracy in a series production mechanical watch. Their presence is subtly announced by the “Si 14”, the chemical symbol and atomic number of silicon, engraved on a balance arm and the caseback.

The De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar with OMEGA’s Co-Axial technology, the silicon balance-spring, and the instantaneous jump annual calendar complication: the new state-of-the-industry for mechanical watchmaking.

The new OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection​

One of the most eagerly anticipated of OMEGA’s launches at this year’s BaselWorld is that of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection. This popular Aqua Terra has been treated to some exciting design enhancements and has also benefited from the technological revolution which has been taking place at OMEGA since 1999.

The entire Collection shares a particularly striking design feature: their “Teck Concept” dials have vertical lines which are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats.

Like all Aqua Terra watches, the new collection has a distinct connection to the ocean – you can almost smell the salt water. The new Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection feels equally at home on the decks of the boats recalled by the “Teck Concept” dials or on dry land – these are timepieces which truly live up to the name Aqua Terra.


The Ladies’ watches in the new Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection represent the ultimate blend of eye-catching design and innovative 21st century watchmaking technology.

The mechanical models in the Collection are the first to be equipped with the extraordinary OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8520/8521, the first Co-Axial calibre designed especially for smaller watches. The new Aqua Terra Ladies’ mechanical watches are also among the first watches to be equipped with a silicon balance spring, a feature which offers unprecedented chronometric performance in an industrially-produced mechanical wristwatch.

The classic models have 30 mm cases in 18-Ct red gold, 18-Ct yellow gold, or stainless steel or in versions which blend 18-Ct red gold or 18-Ct yellow gold with stainless steel. They are offered with OMEGA’s patented screw and pin system bracelets which match their cases.

These watches have Teck grey, opaline silver, or white mother-of-pearl dials enhanced by the distinctive “Teck Concept” vertical lines. Their 18-Ct gold hands and hour markers have a dramatic new look: they have been facetted diamond-polished and are coated with a powerful new white Super-LumiNova and match their cases.

The Aqua Terra Ladies “Jewellery” Collection is uncompromisingly luxurious. The watches in the Collection have mother-of-pearl dials with “Teck Concept” engraved vertical lines; the dials are accentuated with 11 Top Wesselton diamond hour markers totalling 0.19 carat. The bezel is set with 44 diamonds with a weight of 0.77 carat. The Jewellery Collection watches have 30 mm cases, offered in 18-Ct red gold, 18-Ct yellow gold, or stainless steel or in models featuring an attractive blend of 18-Ct red or yellow gold with stainless steel. Their come with either OMEGA’s patented screw and pin system matching bracelets or exclusive integrated white mother-of-pearl alligator straps.

The new Seamaster Aqua Terra Ladies’ Collection also includes a selection of watches with the OMEGA calibre 1424 quartz movement with a power reserve of 27 months.


The Gents’ models in the new OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Collection have been created in two case sizes, 41.5 mm and 38.5 mm. The 41.5 mm watches are driven by the revolutionary OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8500/8501 which has re-defined mechanical watchmaking for the 21st century. The 38.5 mm cases are equipped with a choice of the Co-Axial calibre 8500/8501 or the OMEGA quartz calibre 1538. The 38.5 mm case size has also found a loyal following among women who enjoy OMEGA watches.

The 41.5 mm models are delivered with 18-Ct red gold, stainless steel or blended (18-Ct red gold and stainless steel) cases and matching bracelets. The 18-Ct red gold case is also offered with a brown alligator leather strap.


The 38.5 mm Co-Axial models come in 18-Ct red gold, 18-Ct yellow gold, stainless steel or blended (18-Ct red or 18-Ct yellow gold with stainless steel) and matching bracelets. There are also 18-Ct red gold and 18-Ct yellow gold versions with brown alligator leather straps. The 38.5 mm case with the quartz movement is available in stainless steel with a stainless steel bracelet.

The 18-Ct gold and the blended models have grey “Teck Concept” dials highlighted with vertical lines; the stainless steel watches are offered with a choice of Teck grey or Teck opaline silver dials. Those with 18-Ct red or 18-Ct yellow gold have brushed and polished hands and hour markers in matching colours; brushed and polished 18-Ct white gold hands and hour markers complete the automatic stainless steel versions. The brushed and polished hands and hour markers are coated with a powerful new white Super-LumiNova.