One of the most exotic timepieces is a 1923 14k Eberhard fully hermetic. What makes it so exotic? Its fantastic looks? The way it opens? The fact it was (believed) to be the first patented (1921) fully hermetic timepiece. Well all of those plus the fact it is the ONLY 'cushion' shaped hermetic known?
It was always believed that Jean Finger was first to patent this design in 1921, we as Horologists have always thought that, and indeed Wilsdorf liked it so much, he copied the patent and released an identical (but round) design in 1923.
But during my studying it the NAWCC library I was astounded to find a 1918 advert by Gruen with this IDENTICAL design.
A bit more research showed that Gruen had applied for this patent in 1918 and it was granted 1919, some 2 yrs PRIOR to Jean Finger, and 3 yrs prior to Wilsdorf.
So ANOTHER American first.
Amazing Horology.
Here is my 14k 1923 Eberhard - Note cushion shape:
and the Gruen advert 1918 (patent applied 1918/granted1919)
Still a very exotic piece
Regards
Adam
It was always believed that Jean Finger was first to patent this design in 1921, we as Horologists have always thought that, and indeed Wilsdorf liked it so much, he copied the patent and released an identical (but round) design in 1923.
But during my studying it the NAWCC library I was astounded to find a 1918 advert by Gruen with this IDENTICAL design.
A bit more research showed that Gruen had applied for this patent in 1918 and it was granted 1919, some 2 yrs PRIOR to Jean Finger, and 3 yrs prior to Wilsdorf.
So ANOTHER American first.
Amazing Horology.
Here is my 14k 1923 Eberhard - Note cushion shape:





and the Gruen advert 1918 (patent applied 1918/granted1919)

Still a very exotic piece
Regards
Adam