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It is indeed beautiful but I hope one of the experts chimes in re the originality of the bracelet. I have been told, by more than one source, that solid gold Accutrons did not come with metal bracelets, except the solid gold Astronaut, because the metal would eat into the gold lugs. No more than that one appears to have been worn, it wouldn't have had much opportunity to be damaged.
You were sure in the right place at the right time !
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't buy the bracelet as being an Accutron original. I just thought it was beautiful and time specific to the watch. Thank you for your comments.
 

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Just got this 214 14k wire lug with 14k bracelet. It is in super mint condition and keeping perfect time. Purchased from a Rolex dealer who took it in on trade. Looks like the previous owner rarely wore it. Hope you like it.

pfrago, that is gorgeous...just stunning! :001_tt1:

As far as the authenticity of the bracelet:

1. My research finds that Accutron did make a "ladder clasp" 14k gold mesh bracelet. I was able to find one very similar to this one, that someone had put on an approximately-dated Longines Admiral, up for auction. The one fitted to this Longines Admiral clearly has the Accutron symbol on the clasp! That leads me to believe that there is a good chance the bracelet is authentic and original to your watch. Here is a link to a series of 4 photos of that one: Lot 86 LONGINES - a 10k gold filled automatic gentleman's Admiral bracelet watch... fitted to an associated 14k gold Accutron bracelet with ladder clasp

2. The bracelet on your watch seems to be too well-matched to that particular watch, in it's fit and design, to not have been native to that watch.

While, it is completely possible that the bracelet is a custom-made 14k gold bracelet that the original owner had specially-ordered, considering what I have found in the rudimentary investigation so far --i.e., the fact that Accutron did at one time experiment with a "ladder clasp"-- my current best guess is that that bracelet is authentic to your watch.

I'm interested to see what some other members will offer by way of investigation.

Either way, I'd say you've made quite a find in this one! :cool1:
 

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Really, how did they design the parameters for each link to work with each other, and then make the machines that make those sort of hideously complex bands for things as 'mundane' as wrist watch in the days before CAD/CAM, advanced computers, etc, were common place???? The mind boggles.... :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for all the comments especially Alton. When I first saw the watch I was more attracted to the bracelet than the watch. It is beautiful and in perfect condition and I have always loved the 214 in gold with the wire lugs. Thanks Alton for your research you always come up with the more detailed reviews. As Alton says it looks like the bracelet is made for the watch. Look at were it attaches to the lugs. The curvature of the end pieces duplicate that of the watch case. I imagine that the watch was the prized position of the previous owner, because of its condition and probably because of the price he paid.
 

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let alone the watches themselves... So are the mesh bands made from wire coils wrapped together and then pressed and trimmed or what? I want to know!
I reckon the watches were the easy part. Fine to say the mesh was pressed and trimmed but really think about all those tiny tiny pieces working together. I have no idea. It's like looking at the complexity of a huge bridge across a river. You just can't get your head around how they did it with just pencils, paper and a T-square....
 

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I think Alton1 chose the correct word when he called this watch/bracelet "stunning" but I would like to return if we may, for the purpose of my enlightenment, to the subject of whether solid gold Accutrons came with metal bracelets.
I have searched through my collection of Accutron advertisements and through all of the others I can find and I cannot find an advertisement for a solid gold Accutron with a metal bracelet EXCEPT an Astronaut Model C and some on which the bracelet is a part of the case.
I suspect that maybe in this case the jewelry store mated the watch to the bracelet but does anyone have evidence of Bulova mating a gold watch to a metal bracelet ?
 

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I think Alton1 chose the correct word when he called this watch/bracelet "stunning" but I would like to return if we may, for the purpose of my enlightenment, to the subject of whether solid gold Accutrons came with metal bracelets.
I have searched through my collection of Accutron advertisements and through all of the others I can find and I cannot find an advertisement for a solid gold Accutron with a metal bracelet EXCEPT an Astronaut Model C and some on which the bracelet is a part of the case.
I suspect that maybe in this case the jewelry store mated the watch to the bracelet but does anyone have evidence of Bulova mating a gold watch to a metal bracelet ?
I'm going to research this topic. The question of whether Accutron ever mated a solid gold bracelet with a solid gold watch can be easily answered in the affirmative (at least according to this source/advertisement).

Here is on such example of a "solid" 14K gold Accutron with a solid gold metal bracelet:
The case, bezel, case back and entire thick bracelet & clasp are fabricated from extra heavy gauge 14 Karat Yellow Gold. This beautiful Accutron is All American made, and is all original and has been factory signed & hallmarked 7 times!! -- Quote and photos courtesy boomertime








While this particular bracelet is made into the case (not a pin type), note, again, the use of the "ladder clasp". Although the photos show the clasp in the closed position, it is clearly a "ladder clasp" similar to the "ladder clasp" on pfrago's watch.

Another question might be, "Does anyone know of another watch manufacturer of this era that used this type of clasp?
 

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Scalloped Lug 1960-1965
Made only in 14kt white and yellow gold






The "Scalloped or Long Lug" is, in the opinion of many collectors, the most elegant of the 214's. It was first introduced in October of 1960 and discontinued in about 1965. Most are date coded "M0 or M1" and most have the early "snap" type setting stem." Source: Accutron214 - Accutron Photo Gallery

1. The Scalloped Lug (or "Long Lug") 1960-1965 were "Made only in 14kt white and yellow gold"
2. pfrago's 214 has the Scalloped Lug
3. The back case has the same kinds pattern of engraving on it as does pfrago's
4. The bracelet on the Scalloped Lug is not integrated into the watch case...but is the pin type.
5. Also note the curvature of the the bracelet to the Scalloped Lug ("Long Lug"). It is not a straight-ended bracelet (same as the bracelet on pfrago's.

I can't make out the date code on the caseback of pfrago's watch. If it is dated "MO or M1"....I think the evidence is overwhelming that the bracelet is, indeed, original to this watch, as I suspect it is.

We now have three pieces of evidence to suggest that (a) Accutron did make a solid 14k bracelet, (b) Accutron did mate a solid 14k bracelet with a solid gold watch case, and (c) Accutron did produce solid gold 214's with "pin type" bracelets --and, in fact -- for the Scalloped Lug models -- that was the only option available!

It seems to me, that unless someone can find evidence to support the contrary, the preponderance of evidence suggests that the bracelet on pfrago's absolutely stunning 214 is original to the watch!
 

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Yes Altron-my case has the year code M1 and also the serial number is C942-- very close to the one you have pictured.
Amazing.

The only thing I have no way of knowing about the one above, is whether its bracelet is solid 14k gold or gold-plated. Unfortunately, the source didn't supply any photos of the clasp or any bracelet hallmarks. But, as I stated above, based on the preponderance of evidence (i.e., the 14k curved end Accutron signed bracelet on the Christie's Longines Admiral of similar vintage, the fact that Accutron did make all gold watches, and yours being an "M1 Scalloped (or Long) Lug"), all the evidence so far, suggests the strong likelihood that the bracelet on your watch came with your watch.

With the engraved initials on the clasp, it could be that the original purchaser of the watch may have even ordered that bracelet custom from Bulova. I wonder if the Rolex guy you bought it from has any information on its provenance? It would be interesting to find out the story behind that watch, and how it came to be in that condition over 50 years later.
 

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Just got this 214 14k wire lug with 14k bracelet. It is in super mint condition and keeping perfect time. Purchased from a Rolex dealer who took it in on trade. Looks like the previous owner rarely wore it. Hope you like it.

Holy wow man, that is a stunning watch. I can clearly see why there is such a cult following for Accutron!


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