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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a macro lens and set up a light box. these are my first attempts at some macro watch shots.
I had some trouble creating a custom white balance with my camera so i tried to adjust it with software (aperture).
What type of Bulbs do you guys use around the light box. The photos came out very "yellow" until i adjusted the WB with the software.
I had the most trouble with the AP, not sure why but it seemed very difficult to photograph without getting "hot spots" on the dial??
Let me know what you guys think and any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated!!

PS: I am Using a Canon EOS 20D and EX Sigma 105mm macro lens.

Happy New!!
Wings






 

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I use 5600k "daylight" temo 100w fluorescent twisty bulbs in black painted reflectors.. they're cheap and don't mess with the auto w/b on my Nikon. anything any warmer will look yellow/brown..

did you use a diffuser or a light box/tent? you just have to take a lot of pics and play around and find what works for you.
anything we can do, just ask.

diver88
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys

Thank you for your comments and tips!
I did use a "light tent", i had lamps on left, right and top. But i used incandescent bulbs.
Should i use a lamp behind the tent. Also do you guys adjust the white balce with your camera or with editing software.
I think Next time I am going to try a different background.... maybe 12x12 piece of granite?
what do you think.

Also, this might be a dumb question but, with a macro lens, should i be shooting in "manual" mode or "macro" mode.

thanks again Gentleman,
wings

 

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Depends on if you're shooting JPG or RAW. Probably JPG, so you need to do it camera. Check in your manual about how to set a custom white balance.

If you're going to change the lighting, I would say you need more coming from the front - the dials are kind of dark, especially in the Rolex and UN pix.

As for macro mode, it doesn't do anything to the function of the camera like it does with point and shoots. It simply turns down the noise reduction (since you will usually have good light) and ups the sharpening to help deliver a touch more detail.
 

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get the right temperature right on the light bulbs first, I always run auto w/b and manual settings with any image stabilization off while on a tripod. by "hotspots" I assume that's reflections, there's always reflections and you can deal with them by moving lights, placing dial colored cards in strategic locations to negate them or sometimes moving the lights a little one way or another. I don't use a light tent so I can't really help with that but the idea is the same to diffuse the light to where it looks like it's coming from everywhere or a specific place like real sunlight so move things around, take a bunch of pics and take note of what works. strangely enough, most of my watch pics were taken with my Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 or 18-55mm and cropped, a few with my Nikkor 105mm macro. have fun with it and take a bunch of pics.
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