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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I am a watch newbie. I saw a friend who had a tissot prc200 and fell in love with it. I ended up buying one recently on ebay for 175$. I did a lot of research, and yes the price is surprisingly low. However upon further inspection of the pictures (which weren't generic), the seller's other items and his 100% feedback (which include sales of Breitlings, tag heuers, bulovas movado citizen etc), i decided to buy the watch. Seller is offering a 7 day money back guarantee and with paypal/ebay protection, i feel pretty confident that i'll be able to get my money back if it is fake.

Anyways i received the watch, I've googled all over to see different threads on how to tell fake prc200's. The E's on the warranty card are round and 10 dots, the box's "T" and "+" emblem are slightly recessed into the box, spacing looks okay on the watch's face, hands look symmetric and properly shaped, hands and the 5 minute markers all glow, etc. However i would like to get a second opinion as this is my first real watch. The pictures in the auction are accurate to the item in my hand and if need be i can take other pictures.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

A couple of things that i read about with different opinions:
my watch's glass is lower than the bezel and the serial number is in the format of 3 letters - 2 letters - 5 numbers+1 letter

Thank you guys in advance for your help!
 

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While I don't want to make light of your first "real" watch, $175 is pretty cheap. Unless you are willing to take the back off and look at the movement, call it "close enough" and move on with your life.
 

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~tc~ said:
While I don't want to make light of your first "real" watch, $175 is pretty cheap. Unless you are willing to take the back off and look at the movement, call it "close enough" and move on with your life.
+1 take the back off. Or take it to a watchmaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How can i take the back off? any special tools that i need? google showed no results.
i don't want to go to a watchmaker and take the back off, take an inadequate picture of the movement, and have him put it back on only to find out i need a different angle or whatnot
 

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Um ... Duh - the watchmaker will be able to tell you in <30 seconds whether it's real or not once they remove the back. You can take pictures for your records I guess, but you don't need them for us at that point.
 

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Oh, to remove the rear cover (without damaging it), you need a special "wrench" that goes into the square slots on the outside, then it screws off.

You can remove it using other techniques, but you will almost certainly mess up the cover.
 

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~tc~ said:
Um ... Duh - the watchmaker will be able to tell you in <30 seconds whether it's real or not once they remove the back. You can take pictures for your records I guess, but you don't need them for us at that point.
+1 again and lmao. Not to be mean tho. He means well ;)
 

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If the back is not horrendously torqued-down tight you might be able to unscrew it with a loop of duct tape- sticky side out. But it's better to let the watchguy do it for now.

There are a couple points that worry me. Comparing yours to one from Tissot's website...
1) your second hand extends all the way through the seconds track while Tissot's barely enters it.
2) your hr. and min. hands are silver and theirs are white
3) the # in your date window is delicate while their date # is of a bolder font
4) the words "SWISS MADE" on yours appears to be slightly too bold a font
5) the word 'tachymetre' on yours also seems too bold- likewise with the numbers on the tachy scale
These differences are not noticeable without doing a side-by-side comparison, but they are there, I believe. And it's the smallest details that give the fake away.
Am I calling yours a fake? NO!!! I'm not a Tissot expert. I merely spotted inconsistancies that could be explored further. Let your watch repairman make the final decision.

One thing I will tell you is that the seller is VERY mistaken in calling it a diver's watch...those are the PRS 200 not PRC 200. The PRS 200 diver has a bigger rotating bezel.
 

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While I don't want to make light of your first "real" watch, $175 is pretty cheap. Unless you are willing to take the back off and look at the movement, call it "close enough" and move on with your life.
You are making light of his watch and it is not very nice at all. This community is about watches and not the value and all new members and their watches are treated with respect. So how much do I have to spend before I get a "real" watch?

+1 take the back off. Or take it to a watchmaker.
Some should not take the caseback off because of lack of tools or experience.

Um ... Duh - the watchmaker will be able to tell you in <30 seconds whether it's real or not once they remove the back. You can take pictures for your records I guess, but you don't need them for us at that point.
Again ridiculing the poster, he has asked a question and deserves to be treated with respect and not this "Um...Duh" response

+1 again and lmao. Not to be mean tho. He means well ;)
Again laughing at a new member who has asked a question, not very nice at all. Inexperienced people make mistakes with their watches because of lack of knowledge, your playing with the rotor on your Hamilton and you also have a cap jewel that has popped out on your Stauer. Do not be giving advice to others if you are not prepared to take it when it is given to you.

If you are looking for tips on how to reply to the original question all you have to do is read CometHunters helpful reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for everyone's help, I am on many forums and i have seen way worse attitudes towards the new guy than the ones in this thread (so far).
what exactly should i expect to see (from an authentic one) written on the inside of the watch once i open it up? "ETA G10.211" etched somewhere?


1) your second hand extends all the way through the seconds track while Tissot's barely enters it.
do you mean the yellow seconds hand for the chronograph? it was off by a second when reset but i was able to zero it through instructions provided in the manual.

2) your hr. and min. hands are silver and theirs are white
i noticed all stock pictures of the prc200 show white handles, but other threads where people have bought from AD's have silver hands i.e.
How to spot a fake Tissot PRC-200
I would think the lighting is very bright in their studio.

3) the # in your date window is delicate while their date # is of a bolder font
4) the words "SWISS MADE" on yours appears to be slightly too bold a font
5) the word 'tachymetre' on yours also seems too bold- likewise with the numbers on the tachy scale
If everything's bold, perhaps it is the quality of the picture? they're not 100% crisp.

I'm not arguing with you nor trying to convince myself that it is genuine (even though it sounds like it). I appreciate taking the time to notice the finer things you mentioned.I will visit a Tissot AD and ask them to open up the back. Not sure if they will be happy with me asking for a service that won't sell their items..
 

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...what exactly should i expect to see (from an authentic one) written on the inside of the watch once i open it up?
I hope someone else has a Tissot quartz movement pic. Mine's an automatic so I don't know what a Tissot quartz looks like.

do you mean the yellow seconds hand for the chronograph? it was off by a second when reset but i was able to zero it through instructions provided in the manual.
Yes I meant the yellow seconds hand. I should have specified that...my bad. But I was referring to its length. Notice how the one in the ebay photo extends all the way through and past the second markers track? The one at the Tissot site is barely long enough to touch the seconds markers.

but other threads where people have bought from AD's have silver hands
You've researched this more than I have, so I'll bow to you on this one.

I'm not arguing with you...
I didn't think you were. No worries- we're cool! I really hope it turns out to be genuine. There's nothing that sours me on a brand more than to have my first example of one turn out to be a lemon (no pun intended).
And the nitpicking I did were all things that just might happen at the factory. Details can change from year to year. Like I said...just because I own a Tissot from the '60s and a PRS-516 doesn't make me an expert.

Good luck.
 

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Yes, I was perhaps a bit harsh. My point was simply that even if it DOES turn out to be fake, the OP may easily still get their $175 out of it! It's a quartz watch, so there is much less to "go wrong" and a lot less precision is required in assembly, regulation, etc. Even cheap quartz movements can be highly accurate, reliable, and durable, and, if you never worried about it, you would never know.

The changes seen by Comethunter could easily be last years version compared to this years or photography angles, lighting, etc.

You could buy a battery and have it installed to get someone to open the back if you are worried they won't do it otherwise... If you don't know when the battery was last replaced, it could be money well spent anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ah i see what you mean and indeed the yellow seconds hand is longer on my watch than the stock photos... However in that thread i posted earlier and various other ones, the seconds hand is longer than the marker.

I will keep you guys posted! thanks again!

edit: manual says it uses a 1.55v battery no. 394 SR 936 SW so i guess it does use a battery.

edit again: found this picture of a confirmed genuine prc200 in case anybody finds this thread while searching


as well as this;

in this above picture one other person also mentioned that A is the only discrepancy that can be based on the different years that the watch could have been made in, similar to what was mentioned here.
 

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Richard- said:
You are making light of his watch and it is not very nice at all. This community is about watches and not the value and all new members and their watches are treated with respect. So how much do I have to spend before I get a "real" watch?

Some should not take the caseback off because of lack of tools or experience.

Again ridiculing the poster, he has asked a question and deserves to be treated with respect and not this "Um...Duh" response

Again laughing at a new member who has asked a question, not very nice at all. Inexperienced people make mistakes with their watches because of lack of knowledge, your playing with the rotor on your Hamilton and you also have a cap jewel that has popped out on your Stauer. Do not be giving advice to others if you are not prepared to take it when it is given to you.

If you are looking for tips on how to reply to the original question all you have to do is read CometHunters helpful reply.
You would know if I was laughing at the guy. Sorry. I was just trying to help.
 

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By comparing the two, I think your watch is genuine.
Compare the "1" at the 15 seconds on your seconds sub-dial. In fact all the numerals in your watch appears to be an exact match, while pics of a fake are not.

I think you're safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's cool I didn't take it the wrong way.
I'm debating whether or not i should open it up and look under. I know it's recommended but do you have to change the oring if it isn't broken upon opening it? I don't plan on diving 200m but i wouldn't want it to have problems after washing my hands.
 

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It's cool I didn't take it the wrong way.
I'm debating whether or not i should open it up and look under. I know it's recommended but do you have to change the oring if it isn't broken upon opening it? I don't plan on diving 200m but i wouldn't want it to have problems after washing my hands.
we love new people here because its always nice to have a new watch lover. :biggrin: i wouldn't worry about taking the back off. unless:wink: you twist it or break it. BUT, lets see what the experts say
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
got an update for you guys. Anyways i saw someone online open their screw down back with a metal micrometer clock. I happen to have one and got the back open no problem and no scratches. My worries are gone as far as opening it, the battery is a maxwell and not a swiss renato, obviously someone has opened it.

The movement:



says ETA g10.211 with v8, the tissot v8 uses the same movement and has a very similar if not exact face so i assume the movements are shared.
The off center dot indentations are in the right place. Sorry for my silly "watermark", i don't want fake ebay sellers using my photo in their auctions. There's nothing under where i wrote the mark.

one other thing that still bugs me (i can't believe this does not end lol), on the back of the screw down cap it says "TISSOT HONG KONG" like in here:


does anybody have this as well? or would they mind opening up their tissot to see if they have this on theirs?
 

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It seems the caseback made in Hong Kong is normal, there are a couple of other posts on the forum where members discuss it. The case being made in Hong Kong does not interfere with the Made In Switzerland.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thank goodness. I just emailed Tissot about it but it's very reassuring to hear from someone else. :w00t:
 
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