WATCH TALK FORUMS banner

Invicta Movement Information

24K views 25 replies 18 participants last post by  mikeyt_53 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
#9 ·
Timex contributed this on another thread. I thought it was great info to have with the other movement info.

ak


First,from wiki, basic info on the movement, Valjoux 7750.

ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic movement

The Valjoux 7750[9] a/k/a ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph (stop watch) movement operated by cams integrated into the movement. The traditional mechanism used in the chronograph is known as the Column Wheel. With the advent of the Valjoux 7750, the column wheel was abandoned for a three (3) plane cam system. The three plane cam system is properly known as the Coulisse Levier mechanism. The system and movement were developed by Edmond Capt in 1970, as a fully integrated self-winding mechanism with quick-set day/date based on the Valjoux 7733.[10]

The movement is an automatic winding, twenty-five (25) jewel movement, which can be fitted with a variety of features including the triple date (day, date, month and moon phase) or a variety of two and three register models with totalizers or counters for minutes, seconds and hours.

It is available in three executions or grades: Elaborated, Top and Chronometer.
The key components which differ at the line of demarcation between Elaborated and Top are the pallet stones, balance wheel & hairspring and the regulator mechanism.

To illustrate the differences in accuracy garnered by the successive grades, consider the following specifications:
The Elaborated grade is adjusted in three positions with an average rate of +/-5 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-15 seconds/day.

the Top grade is adjusted in five positions with an average rate of +/-4 seconds/day with a maximum daily variation of +/-10 seconds/day.

The Chronometer grade must meet strict standards prescribed by the [COSC]: an average rate of -4/+6 with a maximum daily variation of +/-5 seconds/day.

Cartel investigation

In 2003 the Swiss Competition Commission launched an investigation into the business practices of ETA SA after Nicholas Hayek, then chairman of ETA parent The Swatch Group Ltd., announced in 2002 that ETA would shortly stop supplying ébauches (partial watch movements) to companies outside

The Swatch Group. Competitors complained that this would effectively put them out of business. Hayek countered that Swiss watch making companies must begin to invest in their own movement-making capabilities because it was detrimental to the long term health of the Swiss watchmaking industry to rely on one supplier, ETA, for the bulk of ébauche and parts production.

The Swiss Competition Commission ordered ETA to continue supplying ébauches to companies outside The Swatch Group during the investigation.

In 2005 the Swiss Competition Commission concluded its investigation and ordered ETA to continue delivering ébauches and parts at the then current levels until 2008, after which ETA was allowed to gradually reduce deliveries until 2010.

The Commission had found that for ébauches in the price range up to US$256, there we no real alternatives and ETA's decision to stop deliveries was a breach of Swiss law pertaining to cartels.

Although the 2005 decision has spurred some watchmakers to invest in the personnel and equipment necessary to produce movements in-house, heavy reliance on ETA continues to the present day.

The original finding has been extended, with the Swiss Competition Commission ordering in:
July 2012 that based on 2010 supply levels, ETA may reduce the level of supplied movements by,
30 percent in 2014-2015,.
50 percent in 2016-2017.
70 percent by 2018-2019.

The number of Nivarox products that must be offered will be reduced gradually, dropping by 70 percent by the year 2023.

ETA hopes to eventually reach a market position where they are allowed to freely choose to supply or not to supply parts and ébauches to competitors based solely on ETA's discretion.


Dubois-Dépraz in Switzerland, they used to work with ETA ebauches only and now started using Selitta ones and are in fact also producing their very own movements

Sellita SW500 automatic chronograph movement:
Stated to have the same level of quality and accuracy of the 7750.
For those who question the ability of Sellita to just step up and make robust, quality movements it should be known that for years Sellita used to be sent movements directly from ETA themselves, for certain modifications requested by ETA buyers.

The 25 jewel SW500 clocks in at 28,800 BPH [beats per hour] / 4Hz to give its sub second hand the same smooth sweep as the 7750.
Like its distant cousin; the option for the day / date function is also available.

From the initial looks of it, it appears that the the SW500 may be a direct drop in replacement to the 7750 [from what I can see their sizes appear to be identical; diameter of 30mm and a height of 7.90mm].

This is a benefit to watch producers who won’t want to spend the money to redesign their cases and dial configurations.
I would imagine that as the watch world becomes more familiar with the SW500 other variations will quickly become available.

Bottom line: Sellita has the SW200, SW300 and the SW500.
More and more, the movements are being used in watches, as the pond dries up, on ETA.
Oris, Tag, and many other's use Sellita's movements.

ETA & and others have used Stellita to produce their branded units.

There are others in the mix, Seagull- etc, I think Stellita will expand as ETA's shrink.


After the Dubois Depraz debacle. It really hurt Invicta's credibility with their ShopNBC customers and their business associates as well.
Nobody likes being thrown under the bus like DD was so Invicta could save face.
The entire matter blew up in their face, so it was a poor decision IMO.

Since then, Invicta has been painfully clear about what and who's movement is in the watch.


Here are some verifiable facts you might be interested in and should know:

All currently made 7750 movements have 25 jewels and operate at 28.6K BPM.
Some Valjoux movements have different configurations and have up to 27 jewels, but they have a different numerical designations as well like 7751, 7752, 7755, etc.

The patent on the 7750 Valjoux expired years ago.
The Valjoux company went out of business, and Swatch purchased the rights and the equipment to have Eta manufacture the movements again.
Eta does not have a copyright on the name Valjoux, so it can legally be used by anyone.

There are several versions of the Valjoux design being manufactured which are not Eta products, although some of them are obviously well made.
Not all of them are made or assembled in Switzerland either.

It is nearly impossible for the average customer or collector to ID which are Eta and which are other since the Eta logo has never been stamped in a visible area on any of the Valjoux movements.

The "Elaboray" (spelling?) designation recently used by several of the Invicta reps is a marketing phrase.
Eta produces several grades of the Valjoux movements, but does not call them by that term.

ETA Valjoux 7750, is offered in grades: Elaborated, Top and Chronometer.

So it is very likely these Invicta Valjoux movements are ebauche units which have been purchased unfinished, then shipped to and finished, assembled, and installed by their own contracted termiers or watch finishing houses.

Regardless, if you listen and read carefully, you will notice that ShopNBC no longer uses the Eta name when advertizing any of these Valjoux automatic chronograph watches whether they are marketed by Invicta or any other of the ShopNBC affiliated venders.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top