WATCH TALK FORUMS banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

This is my first posting to this forum. Wish I had found this place a few years ago. Anyway, I've searched the web and this forum and haven't found what I need anywhere. I'm considering doing a case change on a 214. I've never worked on watches before, but am handy with my hands and am capable of precision work. I recently found a vintage 214 at a yard sale. It's in great shape but, alas I need to replace the case. From what I've seen it doesn't appear too terribly difficult. I've managed to remove the back and can't see any way to remove the works from the rear. My jeweler wants $75 to switch it out and $s are definately an issue. I've purchased a SS case on the bay (same model same year) and was wondering if DYI wasn't for the fainthearted. Anyway I've been considering buying a crystal lift for this (I also have an Omega f300 needs a new crystal). Are there any other specialty tools I would need for this particular job? Is there anywhere on the net where I can find detailed instructions to change cases on a 214? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.

Thanx,
capt-zero
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,912 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Pics are nice!

Once the case back and rubber gasket are removed, the 214 movement should drop right out. Has on the few I've taken apart. Nothing extra that keeps the movement in place, AFAIK. If it doesn't, maybe some crud is keeping it in place. Good you have the exact same case model because there are variations on 214s such as dial, spacers, etc.

Can't help with crystal removal. Have not yet attempted that myself. Others here will chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
oliverb,

Thanks for the reply. I can't send pics, my camera won't give the resolution suffecient to show the details of the works. There appears to be a small lip around the inside of the lower case and a frame(?) part of the works whose diameter is slightly greater than the lip preventing it from dropping out. Because of this lip, I assumed the works were removed from the front. As I said, I've never worked on a watch before, I was hoping I could be directed to a set of detailed instructions somewhere. Anyway, if I have to I'll choke down the fee to have it replaced by my jeweler.

p.s. I did just notice for the first time, while looking through my loupe, the letters "m6" directly above the coils (the case back was clearly marked 'M4'). Is there a possibility this case has been changed in the past. It was a yard sale find, so I have no history.

Thanx again,
capt-zero
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,865 Posts
I don't work on my watches, I think I'm kind of handy but the parts in watches are too small, they drive me crazy. I will note though that I have had incidents in which the movement has dropped out when I had a case open and I just dropped them back in with no problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,912 Posts
Yeah, the "lip" part is anew one to me. Haven't heard of a 214 model that had to remove the movement from the front.

It's not unusual for there to be a slight difference between the case date and movement date. Usually it's about one year but there are examples of a couple years. Hard to say. Maybe some of our more knowledgeable folks have an idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
The movement should "fall" out of the back of the case. The gasket CAN squeeze between the movement and the case causing a bind. I have had a few relatively tight-fitting movements. They required that I pry (using wood or plastic) on the pillar plate near the tuning fork base (but not the tuning fork), and then again on the top where that hole is back and forth a couple times. Only enough resistance to not allow if from falling by gravity.

As for the crystals. Your crystal should use a crystal lift, but I don't have a part number library like some. Look at the edge of the crystal where is goes into the case. If there is a vertical ~1mm cliff protruding from the case, then a crystal lift can remove it. If there is not, then you can push it out the front with your thumb, but a crystal "press" is require to reinstall. I personally like the lift-type because they are easier to not break. Because let's face it, plastic is easy to break...
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top