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The ideal lum-tec for me would be a b series with a b16 case, b2 dial with orange Mdv and blue mdv small lines along the edges of the dial (like the m41), 200 meter water resistant like the b16, robust movement like eta 2824-2 or miyota 1095, pvd hard coating, and round date window like the one on the b4. That is the lum-tec of my dreams. Does anyone know if there is anything along those lines cooking for next year?

What is your ideal lum-tec?
 

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The ideal lum-tec for me would be a b series with a b16 case, b2 dial with orange Mdv and blue mdv small lines along the edges of the dial (like the m41), 200 meter water resistant like the b16, robust movement like eta 2824-2 or miyota 1095, pvd hard coating, and round date window like the one on the b4. That is the lum-tec of my dreams. Does anyone know if there is anything along those lines cooking for next year?

What is your ideal lum-tec?
Welcome to WTF and the Lum-Tec forum!

I have too many "ideal" Lum-Tecs to list, really, but I find it hard to improve on what Chris (a.k.a, "Ray Night," Lum-Tec's owner) has already developed, is developing or considering to offer in the future.

High on my wish-list, for instance, would be a bead-blasted bronze "M-style," offering with a black face and white, M-style font and markers, accompanied by a "vintage" (British saddle tan, black stitching) leather strap.

One of the best parts of this LT sponsored forum is that Chris often solicits input from forum readers, so your combination is likely to be considered and the idea of an "ideal Lum-Tec" is likely to generate a lot of interest and discussion. For me, the range of LT watches is already so broad that it'd be hard to put everything I admire inside one, single watch case. I love my M28 and my SuperCombat B2. They're both "ideal," but fill very different roles on the wrist.
 

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Before deciding on an ‘ideal’ LUM-TEC you should learn more about the different ‘lum’ grades.

For instance on the M39 & M41 the ‘blue’ minute indicators look good, but they last or stay blue for a very short time.
 

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Before deciding on an ‘ideal’ LUM-TEC you should learn more about the different ‘lum’ grades.

For instance on the M39 & M41 the ‘blue’ minute indicators look good, but they last or stay blue for a very short time.
You make a good point.

There has been some conversation about Lum-Tec dial-component (both hands and numerals/markers) brightness, recently, (e.g., discussion about hands vs. markers and initial brightness vs. longevity) that has me wondering if I've just been very lucky with my watch selections. Both my M-28 and SuperCombat B2 have terrific lume that's good from the time it's charged into the wee hours of the morning. Both are also, for instance, very easy to read in movie theaters (we sit in back!).

I know there's, someplace -- on Lum-Tec's website?? -- a ranking of the relative brightness value associated with different colored lume applications. I've always just picked the LT watch by what it looks like -- and its function -- during normal, daylight hours. I've been lucky, I guess, because my watches have been fantastic, and I think the new V1 is supposed to be a great lume-performer, too. But, there's probably some variation, watch-style to watch-style, between the nighttime lume performance, just owing to dial design, font design, etc., even when comparing different Lum-Tec watches that employ the exact same color of lume.

It must be tough for Chris to make definitive statements (for fear of disappointing a customer) about something that's, by definition, so subjective. Saying, for example, "The SuperCombat B2 is one of our best nighttime brightness performers!" sort of puts the company out on the end of a limb, if -- for whatever reason -- a customer disagrees or has another LT that he thinks is brighter. It's like a restaurant customer arguing with the chef, if he feels his steak isn't "rare enough." Who's right, then -- who makes the call?

I remember, before buying my first LT, having a discussion about this with Chris and Bes, and asking if they were familiar with the Seiko "Orange Monster," and if their LT lume was "as bright as the monster's" before I even knew that there were different lumes, and that lume-strength was both color-related and thickness-dependent. They tried to be candid, but they had to qualify their responses, too, since lume-strength is such a subjective question.

Both of my Lum-Tecs are the equal of my Seiko "Monster," IMO, but the markers are much larger on that Seiko (more lume!), so it's a tough (not "apples with apples") comparison.
 

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I have four Combat B watches and one Super Combat B1 and a M38; the ‘lume’ on these watches is excellent. I would add that the good ‘lume’ is a good reason I bought these watches.

My M39 with Orange numbers and M30 with orange numbers are also quite good. It is only the blue 'lume' on the minute markers of the M39 that fell short of expectation, but these are just minute markers and not that important to me.

I would recommend contacting LUM-TEC about ‘lume’ brightness of any watch as compared to the lume of Combat B series watches. :thumbup1:
 

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I've always thought it would be interesting to see a tungsten case that was diamond-brushed or -blasted to dull the shine and bring out the color of the metal.

(That would eliminate any "bling," but it would still be JEWELRY.) :lol: :biggrin: :001_smile:
 

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Charles M13 said:
I've always thought it would be interesting to see a tungsten case that was diamond-brushed or -blasted to dull the shine and bring out the color of the metal.

(That would eliminate any "bling," but it would still be JEWELRY.) :lol: :biggrin: :001_smile:
Here's what Chris said in another thread. :(

Ray Knight said:
As for the brushed tungsten.... It can be done! The problem is it does not look good at all. It does not look like brushed SS as it needs to be brushed very aggressively with super abrasives. Its not a nice smooth fine finish. Its more like a ground finish. Looks nasty! On a ring it can look nice as it can be finished on a lathe nice and slow. On the case it is finished by hand. Imagine what steel looks like after it comes off a grinding wheel. Similar to that. Not the nice fine satin brushed finish like we can do on SS. Bead blasting does not even mark it!
 

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I wondered about bead-blasting media (diamond dust?) as a possibility, until Chris said that wasn't an option.
An Air Force machanist told me it could be accomplished with ceramic beads without eating too deeply into the surface, but it would be an expensive process. He said that after examining a tungsten ring my wife bought in hope of enticing me to wear a wedding band - didn't work - which is both highy polished and dull finished. The dull finish looks good and is about the surface smoothness of bead blasted stainless steel, maybe even a little finer. A tungsten watch case finished like that would be great for me, but it isn't something for which I long.
 
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